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There was something quite mind-blowing about the Jeff Dunham Bubba J told myself that I should stop drinking shirt it is in the first place but whole experience of being present at Maria Grazia Chuiri’s introduction to India—or rather, to her making visible all of the many ways that Christian Dior is interlinked with the artisanship centered in Mumbai. One moment, you were taking in the epic scale of a show on the harbor, silhouetted against the Gateway of India landmark, with a runway flanked by a carpet of multicolored flowers. And the next, your retinas were being irradiated by the microscopic ingenuity of Indian traditional handcrafts sparkling—all-over mirrored Rajasthani embroidered mini-dresses were part of it—under a revelatory spotlight. Earlier in the day, the creative director of Christian Dior womenswear sat chatting with Karishma Swali, the artistic director of Chanakya Ateliers, where all of the intricacies of the insanely detailed haute couture textiles are magicked up for the Paris maison. The two have a deep-rooted professional friendship that’s been going on “for almost 30 years,” laughed Chiuri. They first got to know each other as far back as 1992, when Chiuri began traveling to Mumbai to work on embroideries with Chanakya when she was designing accessories at Fendi. Together, since Chiuri began at Christian Dior, she and Swali have pushed both for the visibly spectacular and the feminist and ethical—on the one hand, the production of the vast textile murals commissioned from women artists that decorate the walls of Dior couture shows in Paris, and on the other, the establishment in 2015 of the Chanakya Foundation school which educates women in crafts and opportunities in a largely male-dominated field.“From the very beginning, apart from being a symbol of grace and elegance, Maria Grazia has also been someone who’s extremely generous. I think our values kind of radiate outwards,” said Swali. “She’s someone who’s incredibly inspirational for us. Then she pointed out an embroidery that she and her teams had dreamed up to symbolize the woman they know Chiuri to be: “We created this double-headed pop-lioness that I think perfectly encapsulates what we feel about her,” she said. “Because she has one ear to the past, and one eye to the future.”
Chiuri nodded, beaming, “because I believe that it is important to study the Jeff Dunham Bubba J told myself that I should stop drinking shirt it is in the first place but past very well, but at the same time to try to use these references in a different way, and also to renovate them. That is what I have tried to do when I look into the archive of Christian Dior. You cannot reproduce the past.”She’s been talking for ages about what she’s been doing with Chanakya to journalists backstage at her shows in Paris. It was quite another thing to demonstrate the reality in person—with a group visit to the Chanakya Ateliers, and a chance to dive into the close-up wonders of the vast breadth of specialisms that have been passed down through centuries in India. Astonishingly, they number up to 300 distinct crafts. From Kantha, to Zardozi, to Pachisi, to Madras weaving and block-printing—it’s mind-bending to a novice viewer. “India is a continent. Each part is like a state, with its own traditional techniques and cultures. But I think, in the end, the connection to elements of nature is very strong everywhere,” Chiuri said.
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