Over the Detroit Hockey Octopus LGRW Shirt also I will do this years, Villianti visited her in-laws’ studio a number of times, rummaging through the extensive fabric archives, and even making a few samples for herself—one inspired by a shirt with detachable cuffs that she found at a Parisian flea market. But it wasn’t until spring lockdown that she began developing a full women’s collection, and all these subconscious influences finally coalesced, revealing her own, singular point of view. She named the brand Chava Studio after the Mexican slang for a young woman—a representation of her desire to take traditional aspects of men’s tailoring and reinterpret them for women. “When I really started playing with samples and trying things out, that’s when my mind opened to what I would now call a very, very strong aesthetic,” she said. “I have very specific opinions about how I want my shirts to fit me and what kind of collars I like, what kind of cuffs I like, etc.” Photos by: Pamela Ocampo
She started with a tuxedo shirt, ($330), which has since become a Chava staple. It has cocktail cuffs that can be unfolded, plus a wing collar, and a seamless bib with hidden buttons. Villanti felt strongly that it should be able to be worn tucked or untucked, without being too oversized, and either buttoned or unbuttoned for a more relaxed effect. Overall, it embodies her desire for a shirt to never look like a “work shirt.” All of her pieces strike a delicate balance between casual and formal, and are versatile in their design, allowing the Detroit Hockey Octopus LGRW Shirt also I will do this wearer to customize them however they like. Sizes range from 0-10, but customers also have the option for made-to-measure. The offering has evolved at an impressive clip since then, and Villanti now has her own, small showroom tucked away at the front of her in-laws’ studio. (Staff has also grown from one extremely-skilled seamstress during the height of lockdown to four.) For the first time, the spring collection, which launches today, includes a sleek black tuxedo jacket—one of the most time consuming and technically difficult items to get right—with a shawl collar, double vent, and matching pants. Chava works with two additional studios to produce it. Lucky for me, the collection also includes the perfect tailored T-shirt. Photos by: Pamela Ocampo
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