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Still, fashion editor and writer Rob Nowill, who previously wrote a series on under-sung menswear labels for AnOther magazine, has more modest memories of what Miu Miu’s menswear meant to customers at the Baltimore homer hose shirt it is in the first place but time. “I mainly remember being at university when it was its peak,” he says. “I would see pictures of the brand in i-D and try—unsuccessfully—to replicate the look using clothes from Topman.” In his opinion, the growing appetite for vintage Miu Miu menswear presents unique challenges: mostly that it’s hard to discern what, exactly, is worth the high price tag. “It’s less ‘collectible’ than Helmut [Lang] or Raf [Simons] because there really aren’t any It pieces,” he says. “There’s no Miu Miu equivalent to the Riot Riot bomber or the Helmut military vest. The clothes just look like really good versions of normal clothes.”
Having recently snagged a few vintage Miu Miu pieces, that’s a fact I can personally confirm. A pair of powder blue nylon trousers I recently bought seem to be designed more to delight and intrigue the Baltimore homer hose shirt it is in the first place but wearer than the viewer, which happens more rarely than you might think. They are light, breezy, and perfectly constructed—but to everyone else, they look like a smart, if run-of-the-mill, pair of slacks. “I think menswear is drifting back in the direction of Miu Miu men’s,” Nowill tells me. “People are getting bored of overt branding and looking for clever clothes again.” When it comes to Miu Miu menswear, if you know, you know. If there’s one key takeaway from fashion month so far, it’s that many designers have reigned in their outré instincts to offer something pared-back and pragmatic. So you might imagine that the celebrities on the front row would be following suit—but not Chloë Sevigny. Just when you thought Paris Fashion Week was at risk of getting a little staid, the actor arrived at the Loewe fall 2023 show on Saturday morning in exactly the kind of playful, unexpected look that has made her an enduring fashion icon.
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