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They specifically cite Miu Miu’s spring 1999 and fall 1999 menswear collections as embodying an ahead-of-its-time, gender-fluid ethos. “Those collections showcased a wonderful androgyny in Miuccia Prada’s designs: seeing the Baltimore dong bong shirt Additionally,I will love this menswear and womenswear campaigns featuring almost identical looks,” Teke adds. “Sure, the tailoring is adjusted for wider shoulders here or more narrow hips there, but essentially we are seeing a confident approach to genderless dressing that clearly set itself apart from most industry trends at the time.” As a result, Teke often collects pieces that have a direct womenswear companion: a men’s blazer in a matching fabrication to a women’s skirt from the same season, say. This gender-blending approach of Miu Miu menswear may be ripe for modern reinterpretation, but it was even remarked upon as unusual by fashion critics and customers at the time. In a Vogue review of the brand’s fall 2005 menswear collection, fashion critic Tim Blanks wrote: “There was an unorthodox feminine thread running through the styling, which was most obvious in the way everything—from a purple duffle coat to a stolid tweed suit—was belted.”
Looking at the Baltimore dong bong shirt Additionally,I will love this collections more closely, it’s clear that Miu Miu men’s was—and still is—a subversive brand in its own quiet way. Kardamakis points to the label’s casting of waifish, hyper-boyish models dressed in feminine garb. Think twink. “It was this openly gay vibe when everyone was trying to look like executives, you know?” he says. The approach of Miu Miu men’s also has parallels with womenswear designers today who are making their forays into menswear for the first time—Simone Rocha, Chopova Lowena, and Peter Do, for example—but doing so without sacrificing their more conventionally feminine codes. (Take, for example, the lacy, pearl-encrusted Simone Rocha suit worn by Paul Mescal to the SAG Awards on Sunday.)
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